7075 · T6 / T651
High-strength plate and bar, common in aerospace and tooling work. Box it on its own and mark the box "7075" with the temper if you know it.
Solids · Aluminum · Solids only
Sell aluminum plate drops and bar ends
We review aluminum solids: 7075, 6061, 2024 and cast tooling plate drops, saw cutoffs, bar ends and billets, kept by alloy. A stamped 7075 plate drop big enough to fixture is another shop's blank, so we review it as stock, not as melt. We do not buy aluminum chips or turnings.
Which aluminum we look at
Solids only: plate drops, saw cutoffs, bar ends and billets. Chips, turnings and mixed loose scrap are out.
6061 · T6 / T651
The everyday job-shop plate and bar. Easy to mix up with 7075 on the bench, so keep it in its own box.
2024
Less common in most shops. If the stamp or cert says 2024, keep it apart and tell us exactly what it says.
Cast tooling plate
MIC-6 style cast plate, bought for its flat, stress-relieved faces. It's a different product from rolled plate, so don't mix the two.
5083 / 6082 plate
Plate grades you may see on marine, structural or European-sourced jobs. Same rule: one alloy per box, labeled.
Why a stamped 7075 drop is stock, not scrap
A scrap yard melts what it buys, so it pays one aluminum price for the metal. A machinist pays for a piece they can fixture and machine a part from. A plate drop with its alloy and temper still stamped on it, and a cert to back it, is still that piece.
What helps a buyer trust it
- The alloy and temper stamp or inkjet print on the plate (for example "7075-T651").
- A mill cert, lot number, or the supplier packing slip that names the alloy. See how mill certs raise the offer.
- Square-cut pieces with flat faces and a measurable thickness.
What lowers certainty
- No stamp left on the piece. Unmarked aluminum gets valued with less certainty. See how to identify unmarked drops.
- A cert that doesn't match what's in the box.
- Anodized, painted or coated parts where the alloy can't be seen.
Keep alloys apart
One 7075 drop tossed into a 6061 box drags the whole lot down to the uncertain price, because nobody can sell either alloy as identified stock anymore. One alloy per box or pallet, label it, and keep the cert or packing slip with it. Pull anything unmarked into its own "unknown" box.
What a good aluminum lot looks like (and a bad one)
These are descriptions, not photos of real lots. Use them as a checklist before you take your own photos.
Good lot: reviews well
- One alloy per box or pallet, labeled.
- Square-cut plate drops with flat faces and a thickness you can measure.
- Bar ends and billets with real length left to hold.
- Stamps readable, cert or packing slip included.
- A simple list: thickness or diameter, rough sizes, piece count, approximate weight.
Bad lot: usually a recycler's job
- Heavily machined skeletons and thin trim too small to hold.
- Painted, anodized or mixed finished parts.
- 7075 and 6061 mixed in one bucket.
- Chips or turnings in with the drops.
- "It's probably 6061." We won't guess an alloy.
How to sell an aluminum lot
1. Sort
One alloy per box. Unmarked pieces go in their own box.
2. Photograph
The whole lot with a tape measure in frame, then close-ups of the alloy stamps and the cert or packing slip.
3. Submit
Use the sell form (pick "Aluminum") with a rough piece count, weight and your ZIP, or email buyers@machineshopscrap.com. Ownership certification is required.
4. Review & offer
A person reviews it and makes an offer. There's no posted price per pound. See how we value.
Aluminum FAQ
This page goes deeper than the aluminum answer on solids. Titanium, Inconel, stainless, carbon/alloy and brass/bronze/copper have their own pages: sell titanium drops, sell Inconel drops, sell Hastelloy and Monel drops, sell stainless drops, sell carbon and alloy steel drops and sell brass, bronze and copper drops.
Do you buy aluminum chips or turnings?
No. We buy solids only: plate drops, saw cutoffs, bar ends and billets. Aluminum chips, turnings and mixed loose scrap go to a normal recycler.
Is 7075 worth more than 6061 to you?
We don't post a rate for any alloy. Each lot is reviewed by a person. Clear alloy and temper ID, plus a cert or packing slip, helps any alloy review higher.
What if my aluminum drops have no stamp?
Send photos anyway. We review unmarked pieces too, but we won't guess an alloy, so an unmarked lot may be valued lower because of the uncertainty.
What size aluminum drop is worth sending?
Pieces another shop could still fixture and machine a part from. Tiny trim, thin skeletons and heavily machined leftovers usually belong at a normal recycler.
Do I need mill certs to sell aluminum plate drops?
No. But a mill cert, heat or lot number, or the supplier packing slip that names the alloy and temper raises the offer, because the next buyer can trust what the material is.